Lowering Your Home's Radon Levels

Radon mitigation

Radon sign

Radon is a radioactive gas that comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in the ground. Over time, breathing in radon can cause lung cancer. You can’t see or smell radon, so testing is the only way to know if you and are at risk.

If your home or building’s radon test has resulted in a radon level above 4 pCi/L, the Wisconsin Department of Health Services (DHS) recommends radon mitigation. Certified contractors are trained to follow the EPA national standards for radon mitigation. Improper installation of a radon mitigation system could result in more radon in the air, so it’s important that steps be done effectively and to EPA national standards. The average cost for a contractor to install a radon mitigation system is $1,000-$2,000.

Find a contractor

Visit our Find a Contractor webpage for tips on finding a certified radon mitigation contractor through one of the EPA recognized third-party credentialing organization that certifies radon professionals:

If at any time you would like to speak with a local health department expert, contact your local Wisconsin Radon Information Center.

Strategies for reducing radon

Mitigation

  • Radon mitigation systems use sub-slab depressurization to prevent radon from entering your home.
  • The system uses a fan to pull radon from below the house and vent it out through a PVC pipe to the outside air above your roof, pictured right. Watch this video above for more information.
  • The system is simple, effective, and energy-efficient (PDF).
  • Radon mitigation systems can reduce radon to below 2 pCi/L.
  • The average cost for a contractor to install a radon mitigation system is $1,000-$2,000. Sub-slab depressurization is not a do-it-yourself project unless you have considerable contractor skills.
  • See the This Old House website for an overview on what to expect with your radon mitigation system installation.
Radon mitigation system outside of a house.

Sealing

Important note: sealing alone to reduce radon is not recommended. The sealing process, by itself, has shown to not reduce radon very much and it is not very consistent.

  • All gaps and openings through basement floors and walls can be sealed with gas-tight materials. The caulk type with the best adhesion to concrete is polyurethane (not silicone).
  • Since it can be inexpensive and does make mitigation systems more effective, it is worth a try, but one shouldn't expect it to have a major effect. It might reduce radon levels significantly if the area of openings that are sealed adds up to several square inches. Hairline cracks are not worth sealing.

Radon- resistant construction in new homes

Person using a tube of sealant to seal cracks

Radon-resistant construction can be installed into new homes. Building radon resistance into a new house is cheaper than radon mitigation after construction, as the needed building materials are common and the techniques are straightforward. Visit the Environmental Protection Agency's (EPA) webpage Radon-Resistant Construction Basics and Techniques to learn more about radon-resistant construction.

Visit the Wisconsin Radon Information Center webpage. Experts are available statewide to answer your questions and provide test kits to the general public.

Have questions or need help?

Get in touch with a radon expert by calling 1-888-LOW-RADON (1-888-569-7236).

Glossary

 
Last revised January 7, 2025